Largely unexplored and rarely visited by Westerners, the northern shores of Lake Malawi offer a breathtaking example of Africa at its most attractive. The steep backdrop of forested hills is lined with sandy beaches and dotted with idyllic fishing villages, where the local Tombuka people live as they have done for hundreds of years.
The vast azure lake stretches to the horizon where on a clear day the hills of Tanzania blush in the evening sun.

60 kilometres north of Nkhata Bay, at the mouth of the Zulunkhuni river, a cool and picturesque waterfall tumbles into the alluring waters of Lake Malawi. The hills are overhung with jungle canopies and rocky outcrops, home to baboons and monkeys, eagles, egrets and a huge variety of Africa’s rich bird-life.
Zulunkhuni River Lodge nestles amongst the rocks and boulders alongside this waterfall. Its beautiful gardens are shaded by mango and banana trees.
How do I get there?
From Nkhata Bay:
MV Ilala leaves Nkhata Bay on Sunday 7am going north.
Nyauyaya Local Boat Taxi leaves Nkhata Bay on Wednesday 2pm going north to Ruarwe. This however is rather unreliable and must be checked beforehand.
A boat can be arranged to take you to Ruarwe anytime through the week as long as there is a minimum of four people.
This will cost MK2500 per person.
From Chitimba and Livingstonia:
MV Ilala leaves Chilumba on Mondays very early in the morning.
For the more adventurous, a challenging but very rewarding guided hike from Livingstonia to Ruarwe can be arranged through Mushroom Farm in Livingstonia.
Tel: 09652485 or 08591564
From Mzuzu:
There is a stunning road through the North Viphya mountains to Usisya which you can travel either by your own high clearance car or using local matolas which leave Mzuzu every day at 11am from outside Jenda Hotel.
From Usisya you can then walk or take a boat north to Ruarwe.
Please note: the road is unsurfaced so a 4×4 car is recommended after rains.